Many modern engines (post 2000) use organic coolant. These days, IAT coolant comes in the color green or the color yellow. Most if not all engines built in the 20 th century used inorganic coolant. Green coolant is inorganic coolant, which is also called inorganic acid technology (IAT) coolant. If you were around last century, you may remember that bright green was the color for coolant. What’s the difference between these types of coolants? Which one is right for your car? Prices were insane the first few years.In general, there are 2 different kinds of coolant: inorganic and organic. In my area, dealer prices are finally dropping and I found the concentrate for about $22. Your link shows $19 delivered, maybe $4-$5 more than the aftermarket. I could have just topped off with distilled water because my refractometer showed the OEM coolant at 55% coolant. If you look at my response in one of your above links, you will see that it is not uncommon for the coolant level to drop a quart over a five year period. pH is good, as is the freeze level checked with my refractometer. My purple coolant at age 5 looks pristine and I see zero deposits under the cap. I simply don't see the radiator deposits that we used to see with the old green. My opinion is that with today's new coolant technology, I am going to just do a radiator drain and refill every 5 years or so (partial change) and forget about the complete flush of "the good old days". And, if I did change, I would feel compelled to do a very complete clear water flush before introducing a different brand. Saving $4 a bottle is not enough for me to try one of the aftermarket products. I think it depends on your personal disposition and risk taking attitude. Unlike the Mopar product (10 year/150,000 miles), these substitutes recommend 5 years or 150,000 miles. If you Google the FCA material standard MS-12106, these companies claim compatibility: It tends to be purple out of the container but can turn somewhat pink in use: of MS-90032 was changed to the current MS-12106. Regarding the new OAT 10 year coolant, the original FCA product spec. Will reduce the amount of corrosion protection in the Ized water when mixing the water/engine coolant Use only high purity water such as distilled or deion. Trations (not to exceed 70%) if temperatures below Mix a minimum solution of 50% OAT engine coolantĭard MS-12106 and distilled water. Technology) that meets the requirements of Chrysler We recommend using MOPAR® Antifreeze/Coolantġ0 Year/150,000 Mile Formula OAT (Organic Additive That meets the requirements of Chrysler Material Stan-ĭard MS-12106. Please review these recommendations for using OrganicĪdditive Technology (OAT) engine coolant (antifreeze) MS-12106) throughout the life of your vehicle. The same engine coolant (OAT coolant conforming to To prevent reducing thisĮxtended maintenance period, it is important that you use This engine coolant (anti-įreeze) can be used up to ten years or 150,000 miles Your vehicle has been built with an improved engineĬoolant (OAT coolant conforming to MS-12106) that allowsĮxtended maintenance intervals. Changing the coolant more than every two years is probably wasteful, but more than 5 and you're accepting a consistent level of system degradation as normal. It's NOT sufficient to maintain the vehicle in perpetuity. As I get more familiar with the Patriot, it's becoming more and more clear that the service intervals are designed to do the minimum maintenance in order to survive a reasonable product life cycle. Regarding the service life of the fluid, I don't recommend following the 10 year interval. Anymore you'd be hard pressed to find an automotive coolant of any color containing alumina corrosion inhibitors, so color doesn't matter. The orange/red/yellow coolants were introduced containing sodium or potassium corrosion inhibitors, since both of those are more reactive than aluminum. As aluminum engines became more common, the alumina in the coolant wasn't sufficient to prevent corrosion. Green antifreeze used to have alumina corrosion inhibitors, since aluminum is more reactive than iron, the alumina in the coolant solution would oxidize instead of the iron engine components. It's worth noting however, that industrial organic chemistry is a big, money making field so the technology it produces tends to be pretty reliable ("organic" in this context means elemental carbon based molecules, not tree bark and coconut oil). OAT is purely a matter of compatibility, not protection or performance. I'm going to go a step further and say that if you don't KNOW what's in there already, you should flush and fill with new so that you do know what's in there.
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